Holidays in Beaune

Location: 35 km south of Dijon;
Population: 20,000;
Founded in the 1st century

The capital of Burgundy winemaking (the wine region is called the Côte de Beaune). But even wine gives way to the almshouse "L'Hôtel-Dieu." It is a showcase example of Burgundian medievalism.

"Who lives in the tower?"—the question arises when you see this building. The analogy with the Russian "teremok" is, of course, conditional. "Hôtel-Dieu" is a Burgundian Gothic building, built along a perimeter and divided into several sections by multicolored tiled roofs, topped with numerous weathervanes. From its construction in 1443 until 1971, "Hôtel-Dieu" was used for its intended purpose—as a hospital. It was founded for charitable purposes by Nicolas Rolin, chancellor of Duke Philippe the Good.

Now the Hôtel-Dieu has been converted into a museum. Inside, there's a 15th-century painted altarpiece, "The Last Judgement," by Roger van der Weyden, and a reconstructed sickroom (a row of modest beds in niches, and nothing else, evokes thoughts of the interplay between the mortal and the eternal).

But on the third Sunday of November, the Hôtel-Dieu lives up to its cheerful appearance. It hosts the second central stage of the Trois Glorieuses wine fair. There's an ancient ritual: bidders light a candle upon entering the room and extinguish it upon leaving. From the outside, the whole place resembles a district council meeting at a community center—a packed hall and a stage with a presidium table occupied by pompous men in ties.

The vineyards around Beaune cover 3,000 hectares and specialize in the same red wines. These include Pommard (5 km to the southwest), the leading Burgundy wine producer, and Aloxe-Corton (5 km to the north), which produces both red and white wines. Almost every village has an ancient church, and castles typically stand near the vineyards.

Overall, Beaune leaves a pleasant impression of an ancient town, made up of narrow streets. The Burgundy Wine Museum is housed in the ducal palace. A notable exhibit is the giant grape press. The city walls, dating from the 13th to 15th centuries, are now used as wine storage facilities. The Church of Notre-Dame houses five tapestries from Tournai, dating from the 15th century, depicting the life of the Virgin Mary. On the outskirts of Beaune, the Archeodrome Park (10 km south) was recently built, reconstructing the ancient history of Burgundy. On the last weekend of January, Beaune hosts a ceremonial procession in honor of Saint Vincent, the patron saint of winegrowers.

Neighborhood:

MEURSAULT (10 km southwest).
The third center of the Burgundy wine region. On the third Monday in November, it holds the honor of closing the Trois Glorieuses fair. A gala dinner is usually held. Meursault's wine specialization is unusual for Burgundy: sweet white wines, often referred to as "ladies' wines." Montrachet's white wine is an exclusive product—the vineyard covers only 30 hectares. The town itself is a fine example of traditional Burgundian architecture with multicolored roofs. The impression of antiquity is enhanced by the 14th-century castle, which houses the town hall. Near the village is the charming 12th-15th-century Château de Rochepot. (Chateau de la Rochepot) - typically Burgundian, with multi-colored tiled mosaics, almost toy-like from a distance...